N is for nettles

Love or hate them they have their uses and are good for butterflies ! You can make great fertiliser tea for the allotment or simply add them to your compost heap to give it a boost !
But I think the best thing to do with nettles is to eat them !

Lady Ridley's Nettle Soup

Why not try Lady Ridley's nettle soup recipe? 

Ingredients:

1 lb potatoes
½ lb young nettles
2 oz butter
1½ pts chicken or vegetable stock
sea salt & black pepper
4 tablespoons sour cream

Method:

Cook the peeled, chopped potatoes for 10 mins in salted water. Drain.

Wash & chop coarsely the nettles (Only pick the new, young tops,using gloves!)

Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the nettles and stew gently for a few minutes. Add the potatoes and heated stock, bring to the boil and simmer for 10 minutes or until tender.

When all is soft, cool slightly & purée in a blender, adding seasoning and the sour cream.

I hope you enjoy the nettle soup. The hardest work is picking the nettles. Half a pound is a lot of small leaves, but it is fun to do, in season, once a year.

THE VISCOUNTESS RIDLEY

L is for Leeks , M is for melon

L is for  Leeks Being in wales L had to be for leeks !! What else !The leek is a member of the onion family, but is far easier to grow than the onion. The are able to grow in varied soil conditions, so long as it is not waterlogged. Most varieties are hardy and can remain in the ground throughout winter weather until needed. You can sow early under glass and have leeks ready for harvesting in the autumn, but it is really during the winter and early spring that they are most appreciated.  M is for Melon This year im having ago at melon s, ive found some tips to help me. Gardening Tips: Many gardeners have good success in growing melon by covering the mounds with black plastic (be sure to stake it securely to the ground). The black plastic helps retain moisture for the plant's roots, keeps weeds out, and also helps to warm the roots. (Just make sure the plastic doesn't shift to cover up your seedlings.) If you don't use black plastic, be sure to mulch well with straw (leaving uncovered spaces for the seedlings to immerge.) Plant seeds in the garden after spring's last frost and once the soil temperature is at least 70 degrees. (Melon seeds won't germinate well lower temperatures.) Plant the seeds in a circle around each mound, setting the seed about 1" deep and covering with soil. After the seedlings immerge, thin to 3 healthy plants per mound. You can start earlier by growing melon seeds inside 1 month ahead of when you want to transplant them outside. Wait until after the last frost before planting them outside. Harden off your seedlings by gradually introducing them out-of-doors. Introducing them too quickly to the bright sun will damage the seedlings. When planting the seedlings, cut a slit in the plastic sheet (if using plastic). Dig a hole in the dirt where the plastic was, and plant your seedling (I like to plant them nearly up to their first set of leaves). Water thoroughly. Gardening Tips:  Slide a flat stone under each melon, once it's about half grown. This can help keep it from rotting prematurely.

J is for Jerusalem Artichokes, K is for Kohl rabi

Jerusalem Artichokes, Helianthus tuberosus, are a tuberous-rooted vegetable and not related in any way to the Globe Artichokes , but are related to the sunflower.

They are not easy to prepare for the table as the tubers of almost all the varieties are very knobbly - but they do make very tasty chips.

Jerusalem artichokes will grow up to 3 meters (7ft) tall and for that reason they can be used as ahedge or wind break.

They need well drained soil. They prefer a warm and dry position and will crop well on ground where other vegetables have failed.

K is for 

Kohlrabi (Italian turnip) (Brassica oleracea Gongylodes group) is a low, stout cultivar of the cabbage that will grow almost anywhere.

ROASTED KOHLRABI

Hands-on time: 10 minutes
Time to table: 45 minutes
Serves 4 (smallish servings since roasted vegetables shrink so much)

1 1/2 pounds fresh kohlrabi, ends trimmed, thick green skin sliced off with a knife, diced
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon garlic (garlic is optional, to my taste)
Salt
Good vinegar

Set oven to 450F. Toss the diced kohlrabi with olive oil, garlic and salt in a bowl. (The kohlrabi can be tossed with oil and seasonings right on the pan but uses more oil.) Spread evenly on a rimmed baking sheet and put into oven (it needn't be fully preheated) and roast for 30 - 35 minutes, stirring every five minutes after about 20 minutes. Sprinkle with a good vinegar (probably at the table so the kohlrabi doesn't get squishy).

NUTRITION ESTIMATE
Per Serving: 64 Calories; 3 g Tot Fat; 0 g Sat Fat; 8 g Carb; 4 g Fiber; NetCarb 4; 31 mg Calcium; 1 mg Iron; 23 mg Sodium; 0 mg Cholesterol; 2 g Protein; Weight Watchers Old Points 1, PointsPlus 1

RECIPE INSPIRATION Adapted from Vegetables Every Day by Jack Bishop

I is for insects

I found this use full chart for advice on bad insects. we prefer to try and be organic as possible, Remember there are good bugs out there too who we need !!!

Symptom	Cause	Cure	Plants
Cluster of small, soft-bodied insects on buds and growth tips (gray, black, pink, green, red, or yellow in color); sticky secretions may be evident. Leaves are curled.	Aphids	Spray with neem oil or insecticidal soap. Use contact poison labeled for aphids on vegetables as recommended by a qualified professional.	Every garden vegetable
Irregularly shaped holes in the leaves; hard-shelled beetles of many colors and sizes	Beetles of various kinds	Pick off by hand or spray with a stomach poison insecticide as recommended by a qualified professional.	Every vegetable crop can be infested by one or more variety of beetles.
Growth tips wilted or entire plant wilted; small hole in plant stem at point where wilting begins	Borer	Cut out borer, or destroy entire plant if affected at base of plant. Spray base of plant with suitable stomach poison insecticide in late spring and early summer as recommended by a qualified professional.	Cucumber, Melon,Pumpkin, Squash
Irregular holes in foliage; Green caterpillars under and on top of leaves	Cabbage Worms	Inspect plants and pick by hand. Spray with Bacillus thuringiensis -- an organic insecticide -- or neem oil. Use a stomach poison insecticide as recommended by a qualified professional.	Broccolli,Cabbage,Cauliflower, others
Corn kernels eaten within the musk; insides of tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants eaten; yellow-tan worms found inside	Corn Earworm, Tomato Fruitworm	Remove infested plant debris at the end of the season. Apply insecticide recommended for earworms as recommended by a qualified professional.	Corn,Eggplant,Pepper,Tomato
Entire plant wilted or cut off at the base of the plant	Cutworms	Use paper collars, one inch above and one inch below ground level, around stems of transplants.	Cabbage,Pepper,Tomato
Slight wilting of the plant; plants growing poorly for no apparent reason; possible root damage	Grubs	Treat the soil with milky spore to control grubs. Control adult beetles with a stomach poison; apply soil drench of suitable insecticide, both as recommended by a qualified professional.	Most vegetables
Foliage turns yellow and begins to curl; small green-patterned, winged insects on undersides of leaves	Leaf Hoppers	Spray off light infestations with garden hose. Apply a stomach poison labeled for use on vegetables as recommended by a qualified professional.	Bean, Carrot, Chayote,Cucumber,Endive,Lettuce, Melon, Potato
Whitish trails visible on top sides of leaves; microscopic larvae of tiny flying insects	Leaf Miners	Remove infected leaves by hand. Keep garden weed-free. Remove and destroy infested plants in the fall.	Beet,Cabbage,Chard,Eggplant,Lettuce,Pepper, Squash,Tomato
Wilting of the plant; root inspection indicates yellowish,1/4- to 11/4-inch wormlike creatures.	Root Maggots	Discourage the fly from laying eggs near the seedlings by putting shields of plastic or paper 4 inches square around the seedlings. For heavy infestations, drench soil with insecticide labeled for control of root maggots as recommended by a qualified professional.	Cabbage,Carrot,Radish,Spinach, Squash,Turnip
A slime trail from plants that have irregular holes in leaves and lower stems	Snails and Slugs	Remove debris where they hide during the day. Shallow pans of beer will attract and drown pests. Commercial baits are available	Cabbage,Carrot,Lettuce,Tomato,Turnip
Yellowing leaves with speckled look; fine spider webs on backs of leaves and at point where leaves attach to stem; tiny reddish mites on webs and undersides of leaves	Spider Mites	Spray plants with miticide labeled for use on vegetables as recommended by a qualified professional.	Bean,Cucumber,Eggplant,Tomato
Distorted leaf tips, white irregular marks on leaves	Thrips	Hose off infected areas (insects are nearly invisible to the naked eye). Spray with a contact poison labeled for vegetable garden use as recommended by a qualified professional.	Bean,Cabbage,Carrot, Celery,Cucumber, Melon, Onion, Pea, Squash,Tomato,Turnip
Leaves and fruit of tomatoes and related plants eaten; four-inch green and white caterpillarlike worm found on plants.	Tomato Hornworm	Remove worms by hand as they are discovered. Spray with Bacillus thuringiensis, neem oil, or stomach poison insecticide as recommended by a qualified professional.	Eggplant,Pepper,Tomato
Tiny white insects fly from plant when disturbed. Large infestations weaken plant by feeding on undersides of foliage.	White Flies	Light infestations can be sprayed off with garden hose or neem oil. Spray contact poison labeled for white fly on vegetables as recommended by a qualified professional.	Eggplant,Pepper,Sweet Potato,Tomato
Poorly grown, yellow, wilted plants; hard, one-inch, golden worms feed on seeds, roots, and lower stems.	Wireworms	Drench soil with recommended insecticide as recommended by a qualified professional. Control adults (click beetles) later in the season.	Carrot,Lettuce,Potato,Tomato, others

Note: Consult your Cooperative Extension office for approved pesticides for vegetable plants.

F is for Family , G is for going Green, H is for Harvest .

So F has to be for family !

Our allotment is a family run allotment even though some days our children ask to sit in the car and play on their ds lite . But we usually managed to get them involved !! 

G is for going green 

Allotment holders have probably been doing "green " for years!  We re use alot of stuff on the allotment, I use old mushroom trays from a local shop to carry plants around in, toilet rolls are great for growing seeds in like melon, squash , runner beans, also water buts have been made out of barrels found lying around at different factories ! ( always ask before you take though ! most factories are  more than happy to give you their waste ! and are often bemused ! ).

H is for harvest 

Although a long way off !! Harvest best time of the year !!! Although busy for me in the kitchen ! Every year i have to pick , prepare and freeze veg which keeps us going till the next years veg is ready ! I'm always looking for new recipes for pickles and chutneys too ! .

here's a fave recipe :

Chili  Jam 

ingredients:

• 8 red peppers, deseeded and roughly chopped
• 5 medium red chillies, roughly chopped
• Finger-sized piece fresh root ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
• 8 garlic cloves, peeled
• 400g can chopped tomatoes
• 750g caster sugar
• 250ml red wine vinegar

Method:

1. Tip the peppers, chillies (with seeds), ginger and garlic into a food processor, then whizz until very finely chopped.
2. Scrape into a heavy-bottomed pan with the tomatoes, sugar and vinegar.
3. Then bring everything to the boil.
4. Skim off any scum that comes to the surface, then turn the heat down to a simmer and cook for about 50 mins stirring occasionally.
5. Once the jam is becoming sticky, continue cooking for 10-15 mins more, stirring frequently so that it doesn't catch and burn. It should now look like thick, bubbling lava.
6. Cool slightly, transfer to sterilised jars, then leave to cool completely.

Makes 4 8oz Jars and keeps for 3 months in a cool, dark cupboard – refrigerate once opened.

D is for digging , E is for Easter .

D is for digging 


Theres no way to avoid it , although i know some people do a no dig technique , we have to dig our allotment. This year we started by hand but got fed up ! so we got a rotivator , we dug up nasty weeds first like dandelions and then did the whole plot ! Its looking good now. As soon as i get my  new  camera  i will post the pictures.

E is for Easter 


A day of rest ? No not if the weather holds !! We always plant our seed potatoes on Easter , its traditional !!

From A to C !

Ive already fallen behind on this new challenge !!! ok

A is for ants !

When we started on our allotment we had a  ants nest , we dug it up and ran away from the ants a few times ! lol. I wish i had a photo but my son was so taken with the ants who decided to march through our shed one day  ! we haven't found any this year and it looks as if they moved on and found a new home !

B is for beetroot !

I used to hate beetroot until i discovered Chocolate beetroot cake !! yummy !
so this year beetroot is on my list to grow !!

Recipe  ;

• 1 large cooked beetroot , about 175g in weight, roughly chopped
• 200g plain flour
• 100g cocoa powder
• 1 tbsp baking powder
• 250g golden caster sugar
• 3 eggs
• 2 tsp vanilla extract
• 200ml sunflower oil
• 100g dark chocolate , (not too bitter), chopped into pieces
• crème fraîche or clotted cream, 
• 
  
• to serve

1. heat oven to 190C/fan 170C/gas 5. Tip the beetroot into a food processor and blitz until chopped. Add a pinch of salt and the rest of the ingredients, except the oil and chocolate. When completely mixed (you may need to scrape the sides down once or twice), add the oil in a steady stream, as if you were making mayonnaise.
2. When all the oil has been added, stir in the chocolate, then tip the mix into a lined 900g loaf tin. Cook for 1 hr until an inserted skewer comes out practically clean. leave the loaf to cool on a rack. Serve in slices with the crème fraîche or clotted cream.

C is for carrots 

What else ??? Ive sown some mixed colour carrots today in our poly in a bid to beat the carrot fly this year. 

The carrot fly (Chamaepsila rosae) is a pest of gardens and farms, and mainly affects the crop of carrots, but can also attack parsnips, parsley and celery

Crop damage is caused by the creamy-yellow larvae (maggots) feeding on the outer layers of the carrot root. In autumn, they may penetrate further into the root. The legless larvae are up to 10 mm in length.^[1]